Las Islas Flotantes

On the other side of Lago Titicaca, located within the Peruvian borders, the Uros can be found. This group of indigenous have constructed 44 or so artificial islands made from floating dry reeds some 5 kilometres from the mainland, purposely distant from any unwanted danger. 

The Uros tribe pre-dates the Inca and because of their choice to live amongst the reeds, their culture is both unique and intriguing. According to legend, the Uros existed before the sun when the earth was still dark and cold. They apparently moved into the depths of the lake for protection against other tribes, including the Inca who often took them as slaves, and the native totora reed gave them everything they needed: a home, sustenance (they're eatable) and transportation. 

There are about 2000 or so Uros left but only a few still live on the islands, most having chosen to live amongst the modern comforts of the mainland, a place where the Uros have always buried their dead in special ceremonies. These few traditional Uros continue to fish and weave, and some, but not all, have opened their homes to tourists. These tourist islands are rumoured to be fake but are an insightful way to see how the locals once lived or still do live.

We waited all day to see them. Eventually we took an old motored boat filled with noisy tourists to one of the tiny, man-made islands, complete with solar panels and TV. Apparently these tourist-friendly islands rotate their open days so their inhabitants get the chance to rest and continue with their habitual lives. This particular island we visited was void of men, most supposedly as they were out fishing or busily collecting reeds before sunset. 

The women of the island, in their traditional dress not too unlike that of the women in La Paz and who are normally left to weave and cook, showed us how they constructed the islands, which are basically bundles of dry reeds placed in different directions and anchored to the wet reeds below. Every day they spread out a fresh layer of dry reeds so the island doesn't rot or sink from heavy feet into the water and at any time they can release the anchors and move the entire island elsewhere.

One particular little girl, the chief's daughter, grabbed my hand and insisted I saw her house, while other little children tried to sell their drawings to tourists so they could buy sweets. Tourism provides financial opportunities to the Uros but undoubtedly challenges their traditional way of living. We took a double-decker reed boat with two dragon-like creatures at each side across to another island as the women sang goodbye songs to us in different local dialects. Their harsh, sun-dried black faces smiling back at us as the sun finally went to rest between the mountainous mainland. 

Although it may have been touristy, the islas flotantes (floating islands) were fascinating, especially to think that the Uros lived there and like that for centuries. Who knew just how versatile reeds could be?