Sacred Valley

From Cusco, we took a very touristy bus towards Aguas Calientes - the closest town to the trail leading up to Machu Picchu. Somehow we always managed to tour with some slightly annoying tourists with no idea of restraint but now with a few weeks of touristing experience behind us, we entered the Sacred Valley or otherwise known as the Urubamba Valley in the midst of the Andes of Peru. 

This valley got its name because of its special geographical and climatic qualities, particularly important to the production of maize - the most expensive maize in the world according to our guide. Carved into the sheer mountainside, we could see ancient terraces created by the Inca to cultivate all the rich foods that made up their healthy diets. 

It is understood that the Inca, the name for the nobility and kings of the empire, were in fact very tall, lean people who enjoyed a diet of healthy vegetables, fish and lean meat. It was the Spanish who introduced red meat to what is now known as Peru and also gave the Peruvians their height deficiency.  

We stopped at an artisans' market in the town of Urubamba, where we took photos with the locals in their traditional clothing as they carried tiny baby goats wrapped in their beautifully colourful, hand-woven blankets. We visited a jeweller who showed us which local stones to blend with the local silver and most importantly, how to tell a fake apart from a genuine. A common pattern used by the indigenous is a spiral symbolising the cycle of life. 

Having been told that we could buy cheaper food rather than paying for an expensive meal in the valley, we opted out of pre-paying for lunch but sincerely regretted it as we were forced to watch the others indulge in a somewhat succulent buffet as we waited to journey onto our next destination. With rumbling stomaches we arrived at Ollantaytambo, the last city captured by the Spanish. 

This ancient Inca town provided lodging for the Inca nobility while the terraces were farmed by yanaconas, retainers of the emperor. These terraces individually formed microclimates that were able to grow any vegetable despite the altitude and were also equip with clever irrigation systems that enabled the Incas to live sustainable lives. 

Carved into the facing cliff were the giant faces of Wiracochan (messenger of Viracocha) and Viracocha (creater god of pre-Inca and Inca mythology). Throughout the year, the sun would shine into the heart of Ollantaytambo either to the left, right or over the centre of this cliff. Depending on which side hit the sun gate within in the town meant the time of the year ie. the time to harvest or re-plant. Unfortunately, the Spanish stole the top of the sun gate from its perfectly carved rectangular legs.

More impressive was the temple wall, which similar to many Inca cities remains unfinished. The Inca only lasted one century and yet despite their short reign they certainly left a long-standing mark on society. When the Spanish arrived, the Inca empire already lay in tatters and unfinished after long civil war, allowing the Spaniards to take advantage of this pre-existing rift.

We said goodbye to our wonderfully encaging guide who showed such passion and knowledge for her forefathers. We left the puma-shaped city by Inca Rail and finally we sank our teeth into some food as the one-carriage train passed through the towering mountains encased in low white fluffy clouds. 

As night drew upon us, we entered Aguas Calientes where our host greeted us and delivered us to our hostel.